Jamon, Mariscoes and Pescadoes: Spain Food Yatra (1) - Barcelona

Traveling through some of the cities and towns of Spain, I had a chance to eat at places wide and varied – with origins from 14th century to 21st century; 10 Euros for a couple to almost 100; a hole in a wall outlet to being served by tuxedoed waiters – an interesting experience for me in a country where so many tourists don’t manage to get beyond the eateries along the beach resorts of Costa del Sol. I have a problem of structure here. Should I write this as a restaurant review? But I am not a competent reviewer of restaurants serving food that I do not know much about. Should I write a guide for tourists? But my sample is too small to do that. So the best choice I had was to prepare a meal plan for myself for two days – a day in Barcelona and another in Andalucía – covering breakfast, lunch, an evening coffee break and dinner.

Again, I am sure to go wrong with names of some of the dishes or ingredients but readers can help me get them right looking at the pictures (they don’t lie??!!)

The Barcelona Itinerary

Breakfast
I have read at a few places that Spanish are not big on breakfast and it would mostly be just pan con tomaquet (bread rubbed with garlic and tomato with olive oil drizzled on top) and coffee. But not if you are at the La Boqueria (formally called Mercat de Sant Josep), and have a chance to visit Pinotxo or El Quim.

Pinotxo has been called a ‘culinary temple’ by El Bulli, had a book written on it and its owner/chef Juanito Bayan has featured on many NY Times. I opted for chipirones con fabes (baby squids with pine nut type white beans) which was light on oil and seasonings and let the beans and squid do the talking. My wife had tortilla de espinacas (spinach omlette) and seemed quite happy with it. But it was Xixos (custard filled croissant dusted with sugar) which took the prize – alright they were too greasy but divine and we ordered a couple more for a later hour. Juanito’s personality is integral to the appeal of this place, with a permanent smile and a ‘thumbs-up’ sign whenever he is photographed (do a Google image search and you will know!). One thing which was amusing for me was that many locals were having wine with their breakfast, something that I haven’t observed in many other cities. Maybe someone can throw light on that.

El Quim is the upmarket version of Pinotxo. It has a younger owner/chef who is gaining a worldwide appreciation, has its menu written on a blackboard (Pinotxo does not have any written menu), and a table mat is placed on the counter before food is place. Well also that the adjoining plate of gambas con ajillo (prawns with garlic) cost 18 Euros which would mean than breakfast here would easily be 30 Euros per person with bread, coffee etc. It is famous for its huevas fritos (fried eggs) with choice of seafood (baby squids, prawns). But this place is not for anyone on a low-fat diet as everything is drenched in oil (fine its olive oil, but still!) be it pan con tomaquet or fried eggs or the prawns.

We did not try the Kiosko Universal but it comes recommended by many and considering that it want crowded, it might be a good option on days when you are not willing to wait to be heard for your order.

Lunch
For lunch, I would make a mandatory recommendation – Paella at Can Majo. I have read reviews which suggest that service is awful and Paella oily. We had neither of these experiences. We had booked a table for our Easter Sunday lunch more than a month in advance, and we were not disappointed. My Pescadito Frito(small fried fish) ‘melt in your mouth’ variety while my wife had a goat cheese salad which looked amazing and tasted better. It was one of the few instances when I have eaten paella which had socarrat (crispy caramelized toasted bottom) and sheen on the top (not sure if it is evident in the adjoining photograph, but would want to understand it better from anyone in the know). Smell of saffron and no penny-pinching on seafood! One of the few places in Spain which has paid attention to preparing an acceptable vegetarian paella. It is all well and good to say that a vegetarian paella is not the real paella, but then I am told that real paella is supposed to have rabbit and game but that has evolved hasn’t it?

If history and ambience were to take priority over the taste of food, a lunch at Can Culleretes is a good idea. With the walls adorned with beautiful paintings, and a 220-old history, it sure is an experience to savor what with all the signed celebrity photographs making you feel in esteemed company. I should add a disclaimer that food, though inexpensive, is of average quality. Interestingly the Crema Catalana here is like Crème Caramel rather than Crème brûlée, as it it does not have the hard crispy caramel top – again something on which I would want to know more – which is the real one?

If you are any other place, and are not the one to skip dessert, look out for this aniseed pancake which was an interesting option.

Evening Snack
For an evening pastry and a coffee, choice could depend on the neighbourhood. If someone has flexibility to chose which part of the Barcelona he/she would be in during tea-time, then head to Sarria. Some of the most innovative and flakiest pastries that I have eaten. We went to this 105 year old Brioixeria in Sarria on Major de Sarria, and everything we tried was out this world. We had caracolas (chocolate croissant), a flautin (long thin pastries with cream or chocolate – I have tried to get more information about it on the web, but unsuccessfully) and a savory spinach-cheese pastry. Dolso in the Eixample district would provide a nice break to tired legs from Gaudi exploration. High quality chocolate and other desserts, along with sandwiches and other short-eats. If you on Las Ramblas then head to Moka for a piece of history. Not really know for its food, but it is finds mention in George Orwell’s 'Homage to Catalonia' as the place where the Guardia Civil of dictator Franco awaited to attack the Republican fighters in the Spanish Civil War (1936-1939).

Dinner
If someone has actually eaten as per this itinerary, then for health reasons the person would be advised to head to any of the Pans and Company outlets for Bocadillos – Spanish sandwiches. This place has all the good things of a McDonald’s – great location, nice seating, efficient and fast service, standardized quality – but avoids all the negatives by having local flavours and healthy food. Or head to a Fresc Co’s outlets around town – a salad and a hot food buffet, along with desserts – eat all you can for under 10 euros. This is another chain professes to promote health food though I would need to lot of convincing to accept that ‘eat all you can’ and ‘healthy eating’ go together

El Quim(Shop no. 594) and Pinotxo(Shop No. 466) at Mercat de la Sant Jopsep, Plaça de la Boqueria www.boqueria.info/Eng/index.php
Can Majo, Almirall Aixada 23 www.canmajo.es/
Can Cullleretes C/ Quintana, 5 http://www.culleretes.com/
Dolso, C/ València 227 http://www.dolso.es/
Cafe Moka 126, Las Ramblas, 08002 Barcelona
Pans and Company http://www.pansandcompany.com/

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Krakow Food Review - Melange in less than a square mile

Krakow is an interesting city – it would have as many churches per capita as Varanasi has temples, but many more times as many pubs per capita as well! For hundreds of years it was Polish capital, not only political but spiritual and academic as well. And now, arguably, the hottest tourist destination for the young traveler in Eastern Europe. So, while many restaurants and cafes are housed in medieval buildings, many of them erstwhile subterranean wine cellars, the ‘food scene’ in Krakow is young creating a beautiful blend of old and new.
This blog is a review of some of my experiences eating from roadside kiosks, in upmarket restaurants and being treated to home-made specialties.



The most celebrated restaurant in Krakow is Wierznyk on the Rynek Glowny (Main Market Square). (http://www.wierzynek.com.pl/). The inauguration of this restaurant in 1364 was attended by royalty from across Europe. In more recent times, I was only following the footsteps of George Bush and Steven Spielberg to this restaurant. My dining experience would suggest that this is a great place for ceremonial occasions with with waiters and waintresses in traditional dresses, palace kind of ambience and good food.

I don’t claim to understand the nuisances of Polish cuisine, but if good Polish food is all that I am looking for, I would head to Pod Aniolami on Grodzka (www.podaniolami.pl/ ) which has some great grills. Duck, goose legs, pork chops, wild board steak and more. And if a pig-out is the agenda of the day head out to Chlopski Jadlo(www.chlopskiejadlo.pl/) and order the Peasant’s Bowl which has more meat than you would need for a rugby team. Pork, beef, chicken, potatoes, apples all on one wooded tray – don’t I look lost with all the food in front of me in accompanying photo (the Peasant’s Bowl seems to be their mascot occupying a place of prominence on their homepage as well). Vegetarians be warned that if three pots of salads kept in a corner isn’t you idea of a meal, then stay away from this place or eat the potato wedges and grilled apples hidden underneath all the meat.



Pod Krzyzykiem (www.podkrzyzykiem.com) - I think anyone who pronounce the name right, shoudl get his meal free. This place has a bit of a character, a bit of a poor man's Wierzynek. Food is good, service a bit cermonial and you can see a model of central krakow under your feet. It has an interesting model of the town center under a glass floor which is the first thing the waiter will show you before leading you to your table or, if in a large group, a very nice private dining area.

If number of restaurants are anything to go by, then Italian seems to be the most popular cuisine. Olive at the Sheraton with a near perfect seafood risotto and Da Pietro (www.dapietro.pl/) on Rynek Glowny with an interestingly presented garlic soup in a bread-bowl, represent the top-end. Our experience at Il calzone was good, with one of the very few places where you caught a waiter’s attention before losing patience. Tasty food along with a good service makes is amongst better dinning experiences. Maybe die-hard Neapolitan fans would find the thin crisp crust of Rome-type pizza not the ‘real thing’, but why to nitpick? Our experience with Trattoria Soprano (http://www.trattoriasoprano.pl/) was better than the one a Del Papa (http://www.delpapa.pl/) , but maybe because everyone in our group was already drooling over good-looking staff at Soprano. Aqua e Vino (http://www.aquaevino.pl/) , in my view is over-hyped, though could be a destination of choice for someone looking for a lounge with good Italian food to go with. The minimalist modern décor makes the ambience a bit a different compared to most restaurants in old-town which over-play their basement location with exposed brick walls, rugged wooden furtniture etc.

Krakow isn’t the place to try Indian food if you are neither Indian nor British. If you belong to either of these nationalities and cannot do without a curry fix, then you have two and a half choices. Bombaj Tandoori (http://www.bombaj-tandoori.com.pl/) in Kazimierz has taken ‘adaptation’ a bit too far, and most dishes are bereft of spices, and very bland even for a chilli-phobic person like me. Padre serves both Italian and Indian food, and hence makes the half of my two and a half. Good samosas, tasty chhole, tawa (griddle)-parathas are the highlights. But it doesn’t have a tandoor so you cant have the kebabs or naan. The best bet in town for Indian food is Indus Tandoori (http://www.indus.pl/) , owned and managed by an Indian with Indian chefs. Naans are a delight specially the garlic version. Kebabs, dal and curries are above average. Biriyani in all the restaurants in Krakow is a botched up curry-rice rather than the Awadhi or Hyderabadi dum-biriyani which is the gold standard in Biriyanis.

Some other ecelectic experiences include a nice ambience and good food at Ipanema (http://www.ipanema.pl/), a Brazilian restaurant – don’t ask me if it is authentic or now, as I have no idea! Gruzinskie Chaczapuri (http://www.chaczapuri.pl/ ) is a chain of Georgian restaurants around the town center, with ordinary food albeit with large helpings which is a double-whammy for some and saving grace for others. Rooster (http://www.rooster.pl/) is a restaurant chain more famous for its skimpily clad waitresses than its food. This being a family blog, we don’t have any photographs here! But don’t be stupid and opt for seats on the terrace as we did, as you will find the waitresses wearing jeans due to the strong breeze across the open terrace and the food having turned as cold as the waitresses. Though not a bad place for sandwiches, burgers and fries. Piano Rouge (http://www.thepianorouge.com/) is a Jazz Club and restaurant with live music and an option to book a table in a small secluded concert area. Good Italian food rounds up the offering.

But the most amazing experience I have had is eating Oscypek (smoked ewe’s milk cheese from the mountains) sold grilled at some stalls on the Rynek or in the shape of moulded cylinders in subways and some other places around town center. Buy it, slice it, grill it on a pan and enjoy it along with Zurawina (a cranberry preserve). A close second would be the cookies from some of the cukernias, like Cukiernia Michalscy on Slawkoska St., the sandwich varieties with either jam, chocolate or cream between two cookies more popular among kids. In the same tradition of baking, I would put the variety and quality of all breads. For an Indian used to only two types of bread - white and, if lucky, brown -, even after six months, I get confused about what to buy.

Not to forget some really good Lody (ice cream shops and cafes) and famous chocolate cafe named Wedel's. For those with sweet tooth, and if you are as lucky as I am, you would get to taste home-made desserts like the yoghurt-jelly dessert shown. This has a yoghurt base with peaches in jelly top – the one in the photograph was made by Renata, a colleague of mine who loves to bake and treat (and we are blessed for it!) as do her mom and grandmom. Another interesting cake I came across was custard filling in center. I have beed treated to a different type of cake / dessert every single day for the last working week preceding Christmas – poppy seed compote rolls to marble cakes and more. While you can go to many of these restaurants during a weekend trip, you would need to make some Polish friends to experience all this hospitality!